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The city of Ajmer was one of the few places in Rajasthan
controlled directly by the British rather than being part
of a princely state. The British chose Ajmer as the site
for Mayo College, a prestigious school opened in 1875
exclusively for the Indian Princes, but today open to all
those who can afford the fees. Ajmer is a major centre for
Muslim pilgrims during the fast of Ramadan, and has some
impressive Muslim architecture. However for most
travellers, Ajmer is essentially just a stepping stone to
nearby Pushkar. It can make a convenient base if you can't
get accommodation in Pushkar during the Camel Fair.
PLACES OF INTEREST ARE:
Dargah Sharif: At the
foot of
a desolate hill in the old part of town, this is one of
India's most important places for Muslim pilgrims. The Dargah
was the Sufi saint, Khawaja Muin-uddin Chishti, who
came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192. Construction of the
Shrine was completed by Humayun, and the gate added by
the Nizam of Hyderabad. Akbar used to make the pilgrimage
to the Dargah from Agra once a year. You may have to cover
your head in certain areas so bring a scarf
or cap.
As you enter the courtyard, removing your shoes at the
gateway, a mosque constructed by Akbar is on the right. In an inner courtyard, there is another mosque built by
Shah Jahan. Constructed of white marble, it has two
majestic arches
and a Persian inscription running the full length of the
building.
The saint's tomb is in the centre of the second courtyard,
with a marble dome and the actual tomb inside, surrounded
by a silver platform. The horseshoes nailed to the shrine
doors are offerings from successful horse dealers! The tome attracts hundreds of thousands of
pilgrims every year on the anniversary of the saint's
death, the Urs, in the seventh month of the lunar
calendar. It's an interesting festival, with Sufis and
pilgrims from all
over India converging in this place.
Adhai-din-ka-jhonpra: A remarkable structure, this
is a masterpiece of Indo-Islamic architecture located on
the outskirts of the city, just beyond the Dargah. As the
legend goes, its construction took two and a half days (Adhai-Din)
to complete. It was originally a Sanskrit college, built
within a temple.
In 1193 A.D., Mohammed Ghauri conquered Ajmer and
converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall in front of the pillared hall in just
two-and-half days (adhai-din), and hence the name. The
distinct pillars and arched "Screen" with its ruined
minarets make it a splendid architectural masterpiece.
Taragarh Fort: Taragarh, also known as Garh Beetli,
is a circumvallation of the crest of the hill which
overhangs the town of Ajmer, and commands a view of it from
every point. The principal strength of the fort lies in
the ruggedness and acclivity of the hill.
The space within the walls of this hill fort is about 32
hectares with several tanks. From 1818 to 1832, a
company of Native Infantry occupied it, but the fort was
dismantled in 1832. From 1860 to 1920, other
accommodation on the hill was used as the sanitarium for
the European troops stationed at Nasirabad. It is now in a
dilapidated and forlorn state, though the hill still
commands a majestic view.
Mayo College: In 1870 a Darbar was held in which Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India,
proposed that an institution be set up at Ajmer
for the education of princes and sons of nobility.
Its foundation stone was laid in 1878 and the building,
constructed in white marble in Indo Saracenic
style, was inaugurated by the Maruis of Dufferin in 1885. Sometimes known as the Eton of India, the institution
had the distinction of enrolling several ruling princes,
not only from Rajputana States, but from also from
elsewhere.
It is now open to all sections of society and is still one
of the best schools in the country.
The Circuit House: The former British Residency,
overlooking the artificial lake Ana Sagar, has now been
converted into the Circuit House. The Ana Sagar Lake, the cenotaph and the shrine of Hindu reformer Swami Dayanand, founder of the Arya Samaj movement in India, can
be viewed from here.
Nasiyan (Jain Temple): Buiilt in 1864-1865 A.D.,
this Digambar Jain Temple is commonly called Lal Mandir
(Red Temple) due to its colour. Behind the temple is Swarna Nagari Hall, containing gilt-edged wooden
representations from Jain mythology, which were prepared
at Jaipur.
MUSEUMS & ART GALLERIES:
Government Museum: Situated in the heart of the old
city and close to the railway station, the museum is housed
in the beautiful fort and palace built by the Mughal
Emperor Akbar in 1570.
It was here that the British envoy Sir Thomas Roe met
Emperor Jahangir in 1616. What is today commonly known as
the Magazine is the palace quarters where the emperors lived.
After British occupation in 1818, and during the first war
of Independence in 1857, it was used as the Rajputana
Arsenal by the British, which gave the name Magazine.
EXCURSIONS
Baghera: Baghera is situated in the Kekri
sub-division of Ajmer District, about 107 kms south-east of Ajmer. The village is known for its
treasure-trove of archaeological and antiquarian relics.
It's old name was Vyagreraka, as recorded in the Bijolia rock inscription during the reign of the Chauhan
Emperor, Someswara, and dated around 1226. Baghera attracted the
attention of archaeologist A.C.L. Carllyle, who examined
its relics in 1871-72.
Baghera is well known for its archaeological sites. The
most renowned is the temple of Varaha Avtar
(an incarnation of Lord Vishnu in the form of a boar). It is
presently enshrined in a comparatively modern building on
the southern side of a big sacred tank known as Varaha
Sagar. On the western side of the Varaha Sagar are the
ruins of an ancient temple dating back to 10th-11th
century A.D. Naginabagh offers a rare sight of low lying
mounds having traces of ancient buildings buried
underneath. On the outskirts of Baghera there is a rocky
area named Mataji Dungar. Here one can behold the mystifying
sight of Jain images jutting out of land. These images
mark the site of a famous Jain temple referred to in the
inscriptions of the medieval period.
Todgarh: Todgarh is picturesque place situated in
the Aravallis, the oldest mountain range in the world. Captain Tod built the fort of Todgarh,
situated 120 kms south of Ajmer. In early times, nomadic tribes
like the Banjaras and Gurjars inhabited this area.
Kishangarh: Kishangarh was the capital of the
erstwhile princely State of the same name and was founded
in 1611 by Kishan Singh, the son of the Rathore
dynasty of Jodhpur. One of his successors was Raja Sawant
Singh, who was not only an accomplished poet, writing
under the nom-de-plume of Nagari Das, but also a
painter of high order. His masterpiece Bani Thani (a
bewitching lady personifying everything beautiful in
womanhood) immortalized him and gave a new theme and
direction to the Kishangarh School of painting. In recent
years, the town has become a trade centre for various
varieties of marble and papier mache products.
Roopangarh Fort: Built in 1648 and named after
himself, the town and Fort of Roopangarh was constructed
by Maharaja Roop Singh of Kishangarh State in the 17th to 18th centuries. This is called the 'Golden
Period' of Kishangarh art and culture, and saw to the
flourishing of the world famous School of Miniature
Paintings.
Originally a nine turreted Fort, Roopangarh Fort has been
built over and added on by several generations and the
different styles can still be seen in the structure. Now
beautifully restored and renovated into a hotel, it is the
first 'War-Fort' to have been done so. The nineteen large
rooms are individually and tastefully decorated, keeping
in mind the history and heritage surrounding it.
Beawar: 54 kms from Ajmer, this town is noted for a Badshahi procession
festival that is celebrated every year on the day after Holi (Dhulandi),
when large numbers of people take to the outdoors and throw gulal (dry coloured
powder) on
each other with great flourish and excitement.
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