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Bikaner
retains a flavour of medieval splendour that pervades the city's
lifestyle. More popularly called the camel country, the
city is renowned for the best riding camels in the world.
Bikaner's history dates back to 1488 AD, when a Rathore
Prince, Rao Bikaji - a descendent of the founder of
Jodhpur - established his kingdom here. Bikaji chose a barren wilderness
called 'Jangladesh' and transformed it to an impressive
city, called Bikaner after the founder's name. The
strategic location of Bikaner on the ancient caravan
routes that came from West and Central Asia made it an
important
trading centre in these times. Bikaner stands on
slightly raised ground and is circumscribed by a seven km
long embattled wall with five gates. The magnificent forts
and palaces, created with delicacy in reddish pink
sandstone, bear testimony to its rich historical and
architectural legacy. Undulating lanes, colourful bazaars
and bright and cheerful folk make Bikaner an interesting
experience.
PLACES OF INTEREST ARE:
Junagarh: The
fort of Bikaner, Junagarh, was built in 1593 by
Raja Rai Singh, who also served as a general in the army of
Emperor Akbar. Made from red sandstone and encircled by a
moat around which the modern city of Bikaner has spread in
a somewhat erratic fashion, Junagarh consists of several
palaces and apartments in a remarkable state of
preservation. The art of mason and sculptor is most
obvious in the recreation of delicate stone screens,
kiosks, pavilions and series of arched entrances reaching
from the corridors that have windows
overlooking the city beyond.
Some of the palaces are among the most richly decorated in
Rajasthan, and include Anup Mahal, Chandra Mahal and Phool
Mahal. They give the impression of rich inlay of pietra
dura, though in fact the apartments are merely richly
painted. The paintings have been preserved as good as new
because of the extremely dry heat conditions of the desert
town. Another palace, Badal Mahal, recreated painting of
clouds on its walls, a reminder of the monsoon that often
ignored the settlement. The Anup Mahal courtyard has a
throne set in a pool of water, bringing alive the
sensitivity the rulers showed in their building
environment.
Lallgarh Palace: An architectural masterpiece in
red sandstone, the palace was built by Maharaja Ganga
Singh in the memory of his father Maharaja Lal Singh. The beautiful latticework and filigree work,
and the sprawling lawns with blooming bougainvillea and dancing
peacocks make it an unmissable visual treat. Part of
the palace has been converted into a luxury hotel and a
museum known as Shri Sadul Museum.
MUSEUMS & ART GALLERIES:
Fort Museum, Junagarh Fort: Ganga Mahal, the
imposing halls added by Maharaja Ganga Singh, now house
the Fort Museum. It contains a fine collection of antique Rajput weaponry, jade handled daggers, camel hide dhals
(shields) and inlaid handguns and camel guns. Other
important objects include a pair of drums belonging to Jambhoji, who predicted the foundation of the
dynasty by Rao Bika 450 years earlier. Items
of personal use by Maharaja Ganga Singh and miniatures are
also on view.
Ganga Golden Jubilee Museum: Established near the
Lallgarh Palace in 1937, on the eve of the Golden Jubilee
celebrations of Maharaja Ganga Singh, this museum is now run
by the Government of Rajasthan. Some principal
exhibits of this museum are the Maharaja Ganga Singh Memorial,
local arts and crafts, sculpture, terracotta and bronzes,
armoury, miniature paintings, folk arts and lithoprints of
the British Interpretation of the Was of Independence 1857.
Shri Sardul Museum and Anup Library, Lallgarh Palace: A
fort of the early 20th century, Lallgarh Palace has
been converted into a museum containing a large number of
items used and collected by Maharaja Ganga Singh and his
successors. Old photographs, trophies, shikar objects,
early cameras and movie projectors abound,whilst weapons used by
Maharaja Karni Singh are on show as well as the manuscripts brought back from
the Deccan by Raja Anup Singh in the 17th century.
EXCURSIONS:
Bhandeshwar & Sandeshwar Temples: The oldest
surviving monuments of aesthetic heritage, the 14th
century Jain temples of Bhandeshwar and Sandeshwar were
built by two brothers and named after them. The rich mirror
work, décor and frescoes of the Bhandeshwar and Sandeshwar;
and their intricate gold-leaf paintings, are particularly
memorable.
The old Jain havelis are popular tourist spots.
Other important temples of Bikaner include the
Lakshminathji, Ratan Bihariji, and Nagnechiji temples. Also
worth seeing are the Bhaironji Temples at Kodamdesar, about
40 kms from Bikaner.
Camel Research Farm (8 km): Spend a day with the
indispensable ships of the desert at their camel research
and breeding centre - one of its kind in Asia. The farm
spreads over
2000 acres of semi arid land and is managed by the Central
Governments. The Camel Corps of Bikaner were a famous
fighting force during the the time of the British Raj and are still an important
part of desert warfare and defence, now with the Border
Security Force.
Devi Kund (8 km): A royal crematorium with several
ornamented cenotaphs or 'chhatris' built in the memory of
the Bika dynasty rulers. Maharaja Suruj Singh's Chhatri is
the most impressive of all, created entirely in white
marble with spectacular Rajput paintings on the ceiling.
Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary (32 km): The lush foliage
of woods on the Jaisalmer road are a haven to nilgai,
chinkara, black bucks, wild boar and groups of imperial
sand grouse. The Gajner Palace, a summer retreat of the
kings, stands on the bank of the lake and has been
converted into a hotel.
Shiv Bari Temple (6 km): Built by Doongar Singhji
in the late 19th century, the temple is surrounded by an
embattlement wall and has beautiful paintings and a bronze Nandi facing the Shiva Lingam.
Kalibanga (205 km): These extensive remains of
pre-Harappan and Harappan civilizations, found at
Kalibanga in the Hanumangarh district, are of immense interest
to archeology enthusiasts.
Deshnok: A visit to the fascinating temple of Karni
Mata, an incarnation of Durga, at this village, 30 km
south of Bikaner along the Jodhpur Road, is not for the
squeamish. Here rats are considered to be incarnations of
storytellers and the holy rodents run riot all over the
temple complex. The rats are known as Kabas, and it
considered highly auspicious to have one run across your
feet - a likely blessing indeed considering their numbers.
Kolayat: The Kapil Muni Fair is the largest fair in
the Bikaner district, and is held on Kartik Poornima at Kolayat.
Originally Kapilayata - named after the sage Kapil who is
believed to have done tapasya (meditation) here for the
redemption of mankind, Kolayat is situated in an arid
area with a lake and 52 ghats shaded by banyan trees. A temple dedicated to Kapil Muni is
situated on the Kapil Muni Ghat, and has a marble statue
of the saint.
A large number of people come to Kolayat to redeem
themselves by taking holy dips in the Kolayat Lake
throughout the year, but it is considered very auspicious
to take a dip on Kartik Poornima. The lakeside is dotted
with temples. Ghats named after these temples allow
privacy to the pilgrims, with some ghats meant only for
women. Visiting Kolayat is considered to be a tritha
or pilgrimage of great importance and it is believed that
a single day's stay at Kolayat benefits as much as 10 years
spent at any other sacred place. The legendary Maharishi
Kapil and the Kapilayatan Lake are mentioned in the Puranas,
and Kapil Muni himself is believed to have descended from Lord
Brahma. A cattle fair is held in conjunction with the
Kapil Muni Fair, in whicn buffaloes, camels, horses and
cattle are sold. The experience is one of a massive frenzy
of mixed activity and hubbub that has to be seen up close.
FAIRS & FESTIVALS:
Camel Festival: A lively and colourful event, the
Camel Festival is held in Bikaner every year. January
is just the right month for a desert spree, and Bikaner
just the right place to see the ships of the desert. In
the camel country these desert leviathans pull
heavy cart loads, transport grain and work at the
wells. The Camel Festival begins with a colourful
procession of bedecked camels against the red sandstone
backdrop of Junagarh Fort, and the festivity advances to the
open sand-spreads of the grounds. Contests include
breeding, the tug-of-war contest, camel dance and
acrobatics.
The camels display amazing nimbleness on their flat feet, dancing gracefully to
the slightest direction of the trainers. Shimmering bridles,
bejeweled necks, jingling anklets and long, lanky camel
shadows on dusky sands cast a magical spell. Hundred of
tourists and thousands of locals and dignitaries revel in
this man-and-animal affair. The evenings close with a different tenor and
tempo altogether, with a traditional rendezvous of
renowned artists of Rajasthan and the local folk performers. The
jubilant skirt-swirling dancers, the awe-inspiring fire
dance, and the dazzling fireworks light up the fortified
desert city of Bikaner like the sun.
Gangaur Festival (April): Dedicated to Goddess
Parvati, the consort of Lord Shiva, this festival is a grand procession of
the deity, accompanied by dancing women. In all, the
celebrations carry on for eighteen days..
Jambheswar Fair: The Jambheswar Fair is held in the
village of Mukam twice a
year on Phalguni Budi Amavasya and Ashvin Budi Amavasya,
in memory of the founder of the Bishnoi sect, Jambheshwarji. His teachings are condensed into 120 sabdas
(sayings) which propagate the cardinal virtues of
self-control, truth and non-violence. He taught 29
articles of religion, hence the term Bishnoi from Bees
(twenty) and Nau (Nine).
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